Knit Fabric Guide: How to Choose the Right Jersey, Interlock, Rib Knit, or Single Jersey for Your Project
Knit fabric is a loop-structure textile that stretches in both directions and returns to shape after wear. It covers the vast majority of everyday garments: T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, dresses, underwear, turtlenecks, and cuffs for hoodies and sweatshirts. Each type of knit fabric has its own GSM range, fiber composition, and ideal end use. This guide covers the main types — jersey, single jersey (cotton jersey), 2x2 rib knit, 1x1 rib knit, and interlock — and explains how to read a supplier spec sheet and match the right fabric to a specific garment.
What You Can Sew with Knit Fabric
The range of garments you can make from knit fabrics is enormous. The two key decisions when choosing a fabric for any project are fabric type and GSM.
T-shirts and long-sleeve tops. The core of mass-market production. A standard adult T-shirt is typically cut from jersey at 160–180 GSM with 80%+ cotton content, or from single jersey (cotton jersey) at 150–170 GSM. Long-sleeve tops run a little heavier at 180–200 GSM. For branded merchandise with screen or DTG printing, use a dense jersey at 180–200 GSM in 100% cotton or an 80/20 cotton/polyester blend.
Fitted dresses and bodycon dresses. Jersey with spandex (elastane) at 200–260 GSM, or interlock knit at 200–240 GSM. The fabric hugs the body, holds its shape, and doesn't bag out with wear. For evening wear and premium capsule collections, 280–320 GSM 100% cotton jersey with a tailored finish is the right call.
Underwear and nightwear. Single jersey (cotton jersey) at 130–170 GSM in 100% cotton with 3–5% spandex (elastane). Lightweight, breathable, and hypoallergenic. Premium underwear often uses viscose (rayon) jersey with spandex for a silkier hand.
Cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands. This is the domain of 2x2 rib knit and 1x1 rib knit. Use 2x2 rib at 250–360 GSM for cuffs and neckbands on hoodies and heavyweight sweatshirts. Use 1x1 rib at 170–220 GSM for lighter cuffs on long-sleeve tops, lightweight T-shirts, and children's garments.
Standalone ribbed garments. 2x2 rib knit with a bold rib structure works well for trendy ribbed turtlenecks, warm leggings, bralette-style tops, and pencil skirts. 1x1 rib knit is ideal for slim-fitting long-sleeve tops with a fine textured rib.
Activewear. Jersey with 6–8% spandex (elastane) and 80–94% polyester content for leggings, sports bras, and cycling shorts. The fabric holds its shape under load, wicks moisture, and dries quickly.
Turtlenecks and base-layer tops. Interlock knit at 200–240 GSM — with its identical smooth face on both sides — sits cleanly in a stand collar. Jersey at 200–230 GSM with spandex works well for close-fitting styles.
Children's clothing. The primary requirements are hypoallergenicity and softness. Use single jersey (cotton jersey) 100% cotton at 150–170 GSM for bodysuits and school turtlenecks; 1x1 rib 100% cotton at 170–200 GSM for lightweight cuffs and neckbands; jersey at 180 GSM for children's dresses and co-ord sets.
Loungewear and pyjamas. 100% cotton single jersey for summer pyjamas and nightgowns; jersey with spandex for loungewear sets and lightweight dresses.
Corporate merch and print-ready blanks. Jersey at 180 GSM in 100% cotton or an 80/20 cotton/polyester blend. Solid base colours and a dense, even structure hold a sharp print wash after wash.
Types of Knit Fabric
Weft-knit fabrics — which account for the bulk of mainstream garment production — come in four core constructions. Each has a distinct fabric structure and a primary end use.
Jersey. The most fundamental knit fabric, with a smooth face and a slightly textured reverse. GSM range: 130–280. The fabric is stretchy and even, with no rib texture. Used for T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, dresses, underwear, and children's garments. Fiber composition ranges from 100% cotton for premium goods to synthetic blends with spandex for activewear. The most versatile knit fabric for everyday wear.
Single jersey (cotton jersey). The lightest-weight cotton knit — often referred to simply as cotton jersey. GSM range: 130–170. The fabric is light, breathable, and soft against the skin. Used for summer T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, underwear, nightgowns, and baby bodysuits. Typically 100% cotton or cotton with 3–5% spandex (elastane).
2x2 rib knit. A rib-structure knit with a bold, pronounced vertical rib. GSM range: 250–360. Stretches significantly in the crosswise direction and recovers well. Used for cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands on hoodies and sweatshirts, and also for standalone garments: ribbed turtlenecks, warm leggings, and bralette-style tops. Typically paired with French terry (loop-back) for trim.
1x1 rib knit. A rib-structure knit with a finer rib than 2x2. GSM range: 170–220. Stretches comparably to 2x2 rib but is lighter and neater in appearance. Used for lightweight cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands in children's clothing, for long-sleeve tops with a fine rib texture, and for slim turtlenecks. The natural trim partner for single jersey and lightweight jersey fabrics.
Interlock knit. A double-knit fabric with an identical smooth structure on both faces. GSM range: 200–240. Less stretchy than jersey and holds its shape firmly. Used for turtlenecks, workwear-appropriate base dresses, long-sleeve tops, and children's garments. The key advantage of interlock is a clean, neat stand collar and cuffs with no visible difference between face and reverse.
Comparing the Main Knit Fabric Types
A quick reference to help you choose the right knit fabric construction without getting lost in the technical details.
Property
Single Jersey
Jersey
Interlock
1x1 Rib Knit
2x2 Rib Knit
GSM
130–170
130–280
200–240
170–220
250–360
Structure
Smooth, single face
Smooth, single face
Smooth, double face
Fine rib
Bold rib
Best for
T-shirts, underwear
All-purpose
Turtlenecks, dresses
Cuffs, long-sleeve tops
Hoodie cuffs and bands
Stretch
Moderate
Moderate to high
Moderate
High crosswise
Very high crosswise
Price tier
Budget–mid
Mid
Mid–upper
Mid
Mid–upper
Single jersey and jersey cover the mainstream T-shirt and long-sleeve market. Interlock fills the niche for turtlenecks and base dresses where a clean collar finish matters. 2x2 rib knit and 1x1 rib knit are the standard trim fabrics for cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands.
Which GSM to Use for Each Garment
GSM (grams per square meter) determines which garments and seasons a fabric is suited for. Here is a practical breakdown.
130–170 GSM. Single jersey (cotton jersey) in 100% cotton or cotton with 3–5% spandex. Lightweight summer T-shirts, long-sleeve tops for warm weather, underwear, nightgowns, baby bodysuits, and school turtlenecks for summer. The fabric is breathable but may be slightly sheer; choose the upper end of this range for outerwear layers.
170–200 GSM. Standard jersey, lightweight interlock, 1x1 rib knit. A year-round workhorse for T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, lightweight dresses, and children's clothing. Not sheer, holds its shape through repeated washing. This is the core GSM range for mainstream production runs.
200–240 GSM. Heavier jersey, interlock, lightweight 2x2 rib knit. Fitted dresses, warm long-sleeve tops, turtlenecks, and base-layer tops. The fabric conforms to the body without overstretching. Well-suited for close-fitting dresses with 4–6% spandex (elastane).
240–280 GSM. Heavyweight jersey with spandex, or heavier 2x2 rib knit. Winter sweater dresses, warm long-sleeve tops, and compression activewear. Hoodies are rarely cut from this weight — most hoodies are made from French terry (loop-back).
280–360 GSM. 2x2 rib knit for cuffs and neckbands on heavyweight French terry. The trim weight should be proportional to the main fabric: a 280 GSM French terry body pairs with 320–360 GSM 2x2 rib; a 200 GSM French terry body pairs with 200–220 GSM 1x1 rib or a lighter 250–280 GSM 2x2 rib.
Fiber Composition: What to Look For
Fiber composition determines how a garment behaves after 10–15 washes. Here is what matters.
Cotton, 65–100%. The backbone of quality knit fabric. The higher the cotton content, the softer and more skin-friendly the hand, and the more hypoallergenic the fabric. The downside of pure cotton: it bags at the knees and cuffs without spandex (elastane). For children's wear, underwear, and premium capsule collections, look for 100% cotton or 95% cotton / 5% spandex.
Spandex (elastane), 3–8%. Added for shape retention and close-fitting cuts. Without spandex, jersey and single jersey will bag at the knees within a month of regular wear; with spandex, they hold their shape for years. For fitted styles, leggings, and sports bras, use fabrics with 5–8% spandex.
Polyester, 15–30%. Reduces cost and improves durability. Mass-market and branded merchandise commonly uses 80/20 cotton/polyester or 65/35. The trade-off: less breathable, and the synthetic feel becomes noticeable in hot weather.
Viscose (rayon). Sometimes added to improve softness and drape. However, it can sag after washing, so it is only practical in premium dresses or luxury underwear where the blend is carefully engineered with spandex for support.
What to avoid: a high proportion of viscose (rayon) without spandex support, or cheap 60–70% polyester with no cotton. These fabrics pill and lose their shape after just 5–10 washes.
Yarn Spinning Technology: Open-End, Carded, Combed, and Compact Combed Cotton
Beyond fiber content and GSM, the spinning technology used to produce the yarn has a major impact on the finished garment's quality. There are four main levels in the market, running from budget to premium. The spinning type is usually listed in the supplier's product spec alongside the fabric construction — for example, "carded" or "compact combed."
Open-end cotton (OE / rotor-spun). The most economical spinning method. The yarn has a rougher, bulkier hand and is prone to pilling after 10–15 washes. Suitable for mass-market branded merchandise, corporate promotional runs, and everyday basics where price is the primary driver. Wholesale pricing sits at the lower end of the market.
Carded cotton. A carded yarn made from medium-staple cotton fiber. The standard for mainstream production. The fabric is dense and even and holds its shape, though it feels slightly coarser than combed cotton on first touch — it softens noticeably after two or three washes. The vast majority of mass-market and e-commerce basics are made from carded cotton. Wholesale pricing is mid-range.
Combed cotton. A ring-spun yarn from long-staple cotton with an additional combing step that removes short fibers and impurities. The yarn is smooth, almost silky, and strong. Fabric made from combed cotton feels noticeably better than carded, holds color longer, and stays looking new for longer. Used for premium basics, quality branded merchandise, and children's wear. Wholesale pricing is in the upper mid range.
Compact combed cotton. An upgraded version of combed cotton in which the yarn is additionally compacted — air is removed between fibers and surface fuzz is eliminated, producing an even smoother, denser yarn. Fabric made from compact combed cotton pills very little even after many washes, holds color across multiple seasons, and retains its shape. This is the top premium tier. Look for "compact combed" or similar designations in the supplier spec. Wholesale pricing is at the premium end of the market.
For mass-market print-ready merchandise and standard T-shirts sold through e-commerce, carded cotton is the optimal balance of price and durability. For premium capsule collections, children's wear, underwear, and any brand positioning itself on quality, use combed or compact combed cotton. Open-end cotton only makes sense for one-season promotional runs where cost is the overriding factor.
How Much Knit Fabric You Need Per Garment
Standard knit fabric rolls are 165–185 cm (65–73 in) wide. 2x2 rib knit and 1x1 rib knit are often narrower, at 100–140 cm (39–55 in), depending on how the roll is folded. Fabric consumption per unit varies significantly with production scale: individual cutting layouts generate more waste, while nested pattern layouts in a production run can reduce per-unit consumption by 20–30%.
Individual cut (single layout):
Production run of 10–50 units, one style (nested industrial layout):
Cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands. Trimming one hoodie or sweatshirt requires approximately 0.25–0.35 m (0.3–0.4 yd) of 2x2 rib knit at 100–140 cm (39–55 in) wide. Children's cuffs for a long-sleeve top or romper take about 0.1–0.15 m (0.1–0.17 yd) of 1x1 rib. In production runs, trim pieces are often cut from larger offcuts of the main fabric, which reduces the yardage of separate trim fabric needed.
Allowances. Add 15% to your calculated yardage for individual sewing, and 5–10% for production runs — to cover defects, roll inspection waste, and consistent cutting at both ends. Knit fabric must always be cut on the grainline; offcuts cannot be rotated into seam allowances. Rib-knit fabrics (2x2 rib and 1x1 rib) require particular care in cutting because their stretch is predominantly in one direction.
Wholesale vs. Retail Pricing
Retail (by the yard, online marketplaces). Prices vary significantly by fiber quality and construction. Single jersey (cotton jersey) in 100% cotton typically retails at a mid-range price per meter; jersey at 180 GSM runs higher; 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib knit sit in a similar mid-range bracket, with budget open-end cotton options at the lower end.
Wholesale (direct from supplier). Wholesale pricing on single jersey and 1x1 rib typically starts at a noticeable discount to retail — often 30–50% lower per meter. Premium compact combed cotton fabrics command higher wholesale minimums but offer significantly better quality per wash cycle.
For a small production run of 5–10 garments, buying wholesale can generate meaningful savings on fabric cost versus buying by the yard at retail. For runs of 50+ units, wholesale pricing pays for itself on the first batch, and at compact combed cotton quality the finished product is competitive with premium e-commerce price points.
Recommended Fabrics by Garment Type
Basic summer T-shirt, long-sleeve top, underwear, baby bodysuit: single jersey (cotton jersey) 140 GSM, 100% cotton, black /products/kulirnaya-glad-140grm2-100hb-1002-oe-antratsit-tr001-kg-cec3c6e0. A light, breathable fabric — hypoallergenic and the staple of mainstream production.
Cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands for hoodies and sweatshirts, premium tier: 2x2 rib knit 320 GSM, 95% cotton / 5% spandex, compact combed cotton, black /products/kashkorse-320grm2-95hb5lkr-shir50h2-kompakt-pene-chernyy-1s5-41df80a7. Compact combed cotton virtually eliminates pilling and keeps the rib looking crisp through repeated washing.
Lightweight cuffs for long-sleeve tops and children's garments, trim for lightweight T-shirts: 1x1 rib knit 280 GSM, 95% cotton / 5% spandex, black /products/ribana-280grm2-95hb5el-140sm-karde-chernyy-12000108-51fb7a1f. A versatile weight for both adult and children's garments; the 140 cm (55 in) width is well suited to mid-length cuffs.
Fitted dresses, leggings, activewear T-shirts with spandex: jersey 210 GSM, 96% polyester / 4% spandex, white /products/dzhersi-210grm2-965pef35el-165sm-prestizh-belyy-aists501-tr0-6424a4da. A lightweight stretch base that holds its shape under active use — ideal for sportswear and mass-market fitted dresses.
The full catalog with filters for GSM, fiber content, and roll width is in the Knit Fabrics section /collections/knitwear. Individual category pages: jersey /collections/knitwearjersey/, single jersey /collections/knitwearkulirka/, 2x2 rib knit /collections/knitwearkashkorse/, 1x1 rib knit /collections/knitwearribana/. The catalog includes 400+ SKUs with photos and full specs, available at wholesale pricing.
Common Mistakes When Sewing with Knits
A few mistakes that come up repeatedly when someone is cutting their first production run in knit fabric.
Choosing 2x2 rib knit by eye rather than by GSM. Cuffs and neckbands need to be 30–40 GSM heavier than the main fabric. If you pair a 250 GSM 2x2 rib with a 280 GSM French terry body, the cuffs will ripple and wave after the first wash. Always check the figures on the spec sheet.
Buying single jersey without spandex for close-fitting garments. Without 3–5% spandex (elastane), single jersey will bag at the knees within a month of regular wear. For base-layer long-sleeve tops and fitted T-shirts, look for a 95/5 or 97/3 cotton/spandex composition.
Mismatching yarn quality to the product tier. Open-end cotton in a premium capsule collection will undermine your brand: the fabric pills after 10 washes and fades quickly. For anything positioned as premium, use at minimum combed cotton — ideally compact combed.
Skipping pre-shrinking. 100% cotton knit fabric shrinks 3–5% on the first wash. If you cut straight from the roll without pre-washing, the finished garment will come up a full size smaller. Before cutting, wash the fabric at 40–60°C (104–140°F) and dry it flat or tumble dry as intended.
High-spin washing of rib-knit trim. Rib-knit fabrics — 2x2 rib and 1x1 rib — must never be wrung out or spun at high speed. The stretch is irreversible once overstretched. Include care instructions with finished garments: wash at 30°C (86°F), low spin, dry flat.
Ordering without a yardage buffer. Knit fabric must be cut on the grainline; offcuts cannot be reoriented into seam allowances. Build in 5–10% extra yardage for production runs and 15% for individual sewing. Order 2x2 rib knit for cuffs with a double buffer — because cuff pattern pieces are narrow, a cutting error is hard to recover from without waste.
Frequently Asked Questions
Jersey with 3–5% spandex (elastane) at 180–200 GSM. Suitable for T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, lightweight dresses, and everyday leggings. The default choice for mainstream production runs.
Both are rib-knit fabrics, but 2x2 rib knit has a bold, pronounced rib and a GSM of 250–360. 1x1 rib knit has a finer rib and a GSM of 170–220. Use 2x2 rib for cuffs and bands on heavyweight hoodies and sweatshirts; use 1x1 rib for lightweight cuffs, children's garments, and long-sleeve tops.
These are cotton yarn spinning technologies, listed from budget to premium. Open-end cotton is the most affordable — coarser yarn, best for mass promotional merchandise. Carded cotton is the mass-market standard covering the bulk of production. Combed cotton produces a smooth, silky yarn — premium quality. Compact combed cotton is even finer and denser, pills minimally, and represents the top premium tier.
Jersey at 180 GSM in 100% cotton or an 80/20 cotton/polyester blend. Prints lay down cleanly, don't crack after washing, and the fabric holds its shape. For children's merch or premium capsule runs, use combed or compact combed cotton.
Yes. For straight seams, use a twin needle or the stretch stitch setting on a standard sewing machine. For production runs, however, a serger (overlocker) speeds up the process two to three times and produces a cleaner, more professional seam.
100% cotton is softer and more comfortable, but it bags at the knees over time. With 3–5% spandex, the fabric holds its shape for years, though it costs a little more. For children's wear, underwear, and basic T-shirts, 100% cotton or 95/5 is the better choice. For fitted dresses, leggings, and activewear, use 90/10 or 94/6 cotton/spandex.
The 2x2 rib knit weight should be 30–40 GSM heavier than the main French terry fabric. A hoodie body in heavyweight French terry (loop-back) at 280 GSM pairs with 320–360 GSM 2x2 rib in 95/5 cotton/spandex. For premium capsule collections, use compact combed cotton 2x2 rib so the cuffs hold their rib structure longer.
Viscose (rayon) works well in premium dresses and luxury underwear, but it sags after washing when used on its own. Choose a blend with spandex (elastane), or use viscose as a smaller component in a cotton/polyester/viscose mix to get the drape benefits without the structural compromise.