Single Jersey vs Interlock vs Jersey Knit: Which Fabric Is Right for Long-Sleeves and Dresses?
Single jersey (cotton jersey), jersey knit, and interlock knit. These three fabrics are the backbone of everyday knitwear — T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, dresses, and wardrobe essentials. All three are available in cotton or cotton-spandex (elastane) blends, all take print well, and all qualify as base fabrics. But they have distinct structures and perform differently depending on the garment. Single jersey is light and airy, jersey is a mid-weight all-rounder, and interlock is a double-faced knit that works beautifully for clean turtleneck collars. The lines between them are often blurred, and fabric buyers confuse them regularly. Here's a clear breakdown, mapped to specific end uses.
How the Three Fabrics Differ
The key difference lies in the knit structure.
Single jersey (cotton jersey). A lightweight weft-knit fabric typically between 130–180 GSM (3.8–5.3 oz/yd²), with a smooth face and a looped reverse. Knit from a single yarn on a circular knitting machine. Light, breathable, and best suited to warm-weather wear and next-to-skin garments.
Jersey knit. A weft-knit fabric ranging from 130–280 GSM (3.8–8.3 oz/yd²), with a smooth face. Heavier than single jersey and often blended with spandex (elastane) for a fitted silhouette. The most versatile base fabric for T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, and dresses.
Interlock knit. A double knit fabric in the 200–240 GSM (5.9–7.1 oz/yd²) range, with identical smooth surfaces on both face and reverse. Constructed by interlocking two single jersey layers into one stable structure. Less stretchy than jersey, holds its shape well, and is the go-to choice for turtlenecks and polished everyday styles.
In a single sentence: Single jersey is the lightest option for summer and next-to-skin wear. Jersey knit is the year-round all-rounder. Interlock knit is the double-faced fabric that excels in turtlenecks and clean, tailored styles.
Comparison Chart
Parameter
Single Jersey 160
Jersey 180
Jersey 230 w/ Spandex
Interlock 205
Interlock 220 w/ Spandex
Weight (GSM)
150–180
170–200
200–240
200–220
200–240
Structure
smooth, single face
smooth, single face
dense, stretch
smooth, double face
smooth, double face
Stretch
moderate
moderate–high
high
moderate
high
Fit
relaxed to semi-fitted
fitted
close-fitted
semi-fitted
fitted
Turtleneck collar
fair
fair
fair
yes, clean finish
yes, clean finish
Season
year-round
year-round
three-season
year-round
year-round
Best uses
basic T-shirt, underwear
basic T-shirt, long-sleeve
athletic long-sleeve, dress
turtleneck, smart long-sleeve
heavyweight turtleneck
Fiber content
100% cotton or 95/5
100% cotton, 95/5, or 97/3 polyester-spandex
94/6 polyester-spandex
100% cotton
95/5 cotton-spandex
Wholesale pricing
budget tier
budget–mid tier
mid tier
mid tier
mid–upper tier
Single jersey and jersey knit are single-faced fabrics; interlock is double-faced. Interlock is the clear front-runner for turtlenecks. Jersey with spandex (elastane) is the best choice for fitted long-sleeves and body-con dresses.
Which Fabric Works Best for Each Garment
A practical guide by garment type.
Basic summer T-shirt. Single jersey 140–160 GSM (4.1–4.7 oz/yd²), 100% cotton, no spandex. Light and breathable. Can appear slightly sheer in white; works well in darker colorways.
Year-round basic T-shirt. Single jersey 160–180 GSM (4.7–5.3 oz/yd²) with spandex, or jersey knit 180–200 GSM (5.3–5.9 oz/yd²) at 95/5. Retains its shape and takes print cleanly — ideal for branded merchandise.
Basic long-sleeve top. Jersey knit 180–220 GSM (5.3–6.5 oz/yd²) with spandex at 95/5. Fitted silhouette that holds its shape through wear. Single jersey works here too at 180 GSM and above, but jersey knit recovers slightly better.
Fitted long-sleeve or bodycon dress. Jersey knit with spandex, 200–260 GSM (5.9–7.7 oz/yd²), at 95/5 or 92/8. Strong stretch recovery and excellent shape retention.
Turtleneck with a stand collar. Interlock knit 200–220 GSM (5.9–6.5 oz/yd²), 100% cotton or 95/5. The double-faced structure sits cleanly at the collar without rolling or distorting.
Tunic dress with collar or smart office dress. Interlock knit 200–240 GSM (5.9–7.1 oz/yd²), 95/5 cotton-spandex. Does not stretch out over longer lengths.
Athletic T-shirts and performance long-sleeves. Jersey knit with 90–94% polyester and 6–8% spandex (elastane), 200–240 GSM (5.9–7.1 oz/yd²). See the Performance Fabrics Guide for full details.
Baby bodysuits and next-to-skin infant wear. Single jersey 140–160 GSM (4.1–4.7 oz/yd²), 100% combed cotton. Hypoallergenic and gentle against sensitive skin. See the Children's Fabric Guide for full details.
School uniform turtlenecks. Interlock knit 200–220 GSM (5.9–6.5 oz/yd²) at 95/5, or single jersey 180–200 GSM (5.3–5.9 oz/yd²) at 95/5. Interlock is preferred for a clean, durable stand collar.
Corporate branded merchandise for print. Single jersey or jersey knit 160–180 GSM (4.7–5.3 oz/yd²), 100% cotton or 80/20 cotton-polyester. Even, smooth surface in standard base colors.
Choosing the Right Weight (GSM)
130–160 GSM (3.8–4.7 oz/yd²) — lightweight single jersey. Summer T-shirts, underwear, nightwear, baby bodysuits. 100% cotton, no spandex.
160–180 GSM (4.7–5.3 oz/yd²) — mid-weight single jersey or light jersey knit. Year-round basic T-shirts and lightweight long-sleeves. Add 3–5% spandex (elastane) for better shape retention at the elbows and cuffs.
180–200 GSM (5.3–5.9 oz/yd²) — standard jersey knit. Substantial T-shirt weight or everyday long-sleeve. No transparency issues.
200–240 GSM (5.9–7.1 oz/yd²) — jersey knit with spandex or interlock knit. Fitted long-sleeves, dresses, turtlenecks. The most versatile range for fitted and smart-casual styles.
240–280 GSM (7.1–8.3 oz/yd²) — heavyweight jersey knit with spandex. Performance long-sleeves, bodycon dresses, athletic crop tops.
Fiber Content: What to Look For
Cotton 80–100%. The foundation of any quality single jersey, jersey knit, or interlock. Higher cotton content means softer hand feel.
Spandex (elastane) 3–10%. 3–5% for everyday basics; 5–8% for fitted styles; 8–10% for activewear.
Polyester 15–30%. Improves durability and shape retention while reducing cost. An 80/20 cotton-polyester blend is the standard choice for branded merchandise.
What to avoid. Rayon (viscose) above 10% — the fabric will sag and lose structure. "Synthetic blend" without a specified fiber breakdown — prone to pilling.
For a full breakdown of spinning technologies, see the Guide to Open-End, Carded, Combed, and Compact Combed Cotton.
How Much Fabric Do You Need?
Individual / made-to-measure cutting:
Production run of 10–50 units:
Add a waste allowance of 15% for individual cutting and 5–10% for production runs.
Pricing: Wholesale vs. Retail
Retail pricing (by the yard/meter, online fabric stores and marketplaces). Single jersey, 100% cotton, 140–180 GSM typically retails at a significant premium over wholesale — expect to pay roughly two to three times the wholesale cost per meter. Jersey knit at 180–200 GSM and interlock at 200–220 GSM sit in a similar retail price band, with interlock generally at the higher end.
Wholesale pricing. Single jersey 140 GSM, 100% open-end cotton sits at the lowest price point. Moving up: single jersey 160 GSM with spandex in combed cotton, jersey knit 180 GSM at 95/5, and sport jersey at 230 GSM are progressively higher. Interlock 205 GSM in 100% open-end cotton is a mid-range wholesale fabric, with 220 GSM compact combed cotton spandex interlock at the top of the range. As a general rule, wholesale prices are 40–60% below retail for comparable quality.
Sample production cost breakdown — 10 turtlenecks in interlock knit: fabric consumption approximately 9–11 m at wholesale pricing. Retail selling prices for finished turtlenecks on e-commerce platforms typically yield margins well above 200% on fabric cost alone, depending on your production costs and market positioning.
The Right Fabric for Each Application
Basic T-shirts, baby bodywear, and premium capsule collections: single jersey 160 GSM, 94/6 cotton-spandex, compact combed cotton, black /products/kulirnaya-glad-160grm2-94hb6lkr-180sm-kompakt-pene-401-chern-74e5daab. Premium cotton jersey with spandex.
High-volume basic T-shirts and branded merchandise for print: jersey knit 180 GSM, 97/3 polyester-spandex, white /products/dzhersi-180grm2-97pef3el-165sm-prestizh-belyy-aists501-tr008-86f6c8cb. A lightweight, universally printable weight.
Fitted long-sleeves, athletic tops, and stretch dresses: jersey knit 230 GSM, 94/6 polyester-spandex stretch, white /products/dzhersi-230grm2-94pef6el-165sm-sport-prestizh-streych-belyy-d61776f0. A stretch-weight fabric built for close-fitting styles.
Turtlenecks with stand collars, school uniforms, and smart everyday long-sleeves: interlock knit 205 GSM, 100% cotton, open-end spun, black /collections/knitwear. Double-faced smooth structure for a clean, professional collar finish.
Full range in the Knit Fabrics category /collections/knitwear, single jersey /collections/knitwearkulirka/, jersey knit /collections/knitwearjersey/, interlock knit /collections/knitwearinterlok/. Related guides: Knit Fabrics: How to Choose, Single Jersey vs Jersey Knit, Fabric for T-Shirts.
Common Mistakes When Choosing Between These Fabrics
Making a turtleneck from lightweight single jersey at 140 GSM. Thin single jersey stretches out at the collar after just a few wears. For any turtleneck style, use interlock knit at 200–220 GSM or a heavier jersey knit at 220 GSM and above.
Using jersey knit without spandex for a fitted long-sleeve. The fabric will bag out at the elbows. For fitted styles, always use a 95/5 or 92/8 cotton-spandex blend.
Choosing interlock knit for a summer T-shirt. Interlock is denser and warmer than single jersey and won't breathe as well in hot weather. Stick to single jersey for summer tops.
Ignoring stretch direction when cutting. All three fabrics stretch in both directions, but the primary stretch runs across the width of the roll (crosswise grain). Cut your pattern pieces accordingly.
Mismatching fiber content between the body fabric and the rib trim. If your main fabric is 100% cotton interlock and your 1x1 rib knit trim contains polyester, the two components will shrink at different rates after washing. Always match the fiber content of your trim to the body fabric.
Ordering exactly the calculated yardage with no allowance. Always add 5–10% for production runs and 15% for individual cutting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Interlock knit at 200–220 GSM, 100% cotton or 95/5 cotton-spandex. The double-faced structure sits cleanly at a stand collar without rolling or twisting. Jersey knit also works, but interlock is the preferred choice.
Interlock knit differs from jersey knit in its double-knit construction: both faces are smooth and identical, whereas jersey knit has a distinct face and reverse. Ponte de roma (a dense double-faced jersey at 280–330 GSM) is structurally similar to interlock but heavier.
For bodysuits and next-to-skin wear, ages 0–3: single jersey 140–160 GSM, 100% combed cotton. For school turtlenecks, ages 5–10: interlock knit 200–220 GSM. For everyday T-shirts, ages 1–7: single jersey with spandex or jersey knit at 180 GSM.
Jersey knit with spandex, 200–240 GSM, in a 90–94% polyester blend. Performance jersey dries quickly, withstands repeated washing, and holds its shape. See the Performance Fabrics Guide for full details.
1.1–1.3 m (1.2–1.45 yd) of interlock for individual cutting; 0.9–1.1 m (1.0–1.2 yd) per unit in a run of 10 or more. Add 0.1–0.15 m (4–6 in) of 1x1 rib knit for the neckband.
Yes — particularly for a fitted style. Interlock knit is denser than single jersey and holds its shape better. The trade-off is that it runs warmer and is less breathable in hot weather. It is well suited to transitional-season T-shirts and smart everyday styles.
Jersey knit with spandex, 200–260 GSM (5.9–7.7 oz/yd²), at 95/5 or 92/8 cotton-spandex. Excellent stretch recovery and clean shape retention. Interlock also works at 220–240 GSM, but jersey knit with spandex performs better for bodycon silhouettes.
Interlock knit is constructed from two interlocked single jersey layers knitted into one stable fabric. Both faces are smooth and identical. Standard jersey knit is single-faced — the face and reverse look different. This is why interlock produces a cleaner, more professional finish at stand collars and cuffs.
Interlock knit is less widely stocked than single jersey or jersey knit, so it pays to source from specialist knit fabric suppliers or direct from Turkish or other established knit mills. Minimum order quantities typically start at one roll (approximately 50–80 m / 55–88 yd). Request samples before committing to a production run, as quality and hand feel vary significantly between suppliers.