Single Jersey vs Jersey Knit: Which Fabric Is Right for T-Shirts and Long-Sleeve Tops?
Single jersey and jersey knit fabric. These are the two workhorses of knit apparel — the default choice for T-shirts and long-sleeve tops across every price point. At first glance they look nearly identical: both have a smooth face, both are available in cotton or cotton-spandex (elastane), and both are well-suited to production runs of any scale. But they are distinct fabrics with different properties. Single jersey is lighter and finer; jersey knit is denser and more form-fitting. The boundary between them is blurry — at 200 GSM, different suppliers will call the same fabric either single jersey or jersey depending on their own conventions. This guide breaks down the differences by end use so you can make the right call for your project.
Single Jersey vs Double Jersey: How They Actually Differ
The core difference comes down to GSM and knit structure.
Single jersey (cotton jersey). A lightweight weft-knit fabric typically ranging from 130–180 GSM with an identical smooth surface on both faces. Produced on a circular knitting machine from a single yarn that runs horizontally to form rows of loops. Light, breathable, and soft against the skin. Once you cross 200 GSM, most suppliers will call the fabric jersey rather than single jersey.
Jersey knit fabric. A weft-knit fabric spanning a much wider range — roughly 130–280 GSM — with a more pronounced, dense hand. Often includes spandex (elastane) for shape retention and a closer fit. Used as a versatile base for T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, dresses, and performance styles.
The short version: single jersey is fine and lightweight, best for summer tees and base layers. Jersey knit is denser and more versatile — the go-to for year-round T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, and fitted dresses. At the overlap weight of 180–200 GSM, the two fabrics perform almost identically in practice.
Comparison Table: Single Jersey vs Jersey Knit Fabric Types
A quick-reference guide to the most common weights and their key properties.
Parameter
Single Jersey 140
Single Jersey 160
Single Jersey 180
Jersey 180
Jersey 230
Jersey 320 Ponte
Weight (GSM)
130–150
150–180
170–200
170–200
200–240
280–330
Structure
Fine, smooth
Medium, smooth
Smooth, substantial
Smooth, substantial
Dense, stretchy
Double-faced
Sheerness
Yes — white/light colours
No — dark colours
No
No
No
No
Season
Summer
Year-round
Year-round
Year-round
Mid-season/transitional
Autumn–Winter
Spandex options
None
3–5%
3–5%
3–5% or none
4–10%
0–5%
Fit
Relaxed
Relaxed to semi-fitted
Fitted
Fitted
Close-fitted
Structured, shape-retaining
Composition
100% cotton
95/5 cotton-spandex or 100% cotton
95/5
100% cotton, 95/5, or 97/3 polyester-spandex
94/6 polyester-spandex
100% cotton
Best for
Summer tees, base layers
Everyday T-shirt
Long-sleeve tops, heavier tees
Everyday T-shirt, branded merch
Fitted long-sleeve tops, performance wear
Fitted bodycon dresses
Wholesale price range
Budget tier
Mid tier
Mid tier
Budget–mid tier
Mid–upper tier
Upper tier
Single jersey wins on weight and value. Jersey knit wins on density, fit, and versatility. At the crossover weight of 180–200 GSM, performance characteristics are nearly identical — and the choice often comes down to supplier pricing on the day.
Which Fabric Works Best for Each Garment Type
A practical breakdown by end use.
Summer and beachwear T-shirts. Single jersey 130–160 GSM, 100% cotton, no spandex. Light, breathable, and built for heat. White versions may be slightly sheer — go darker if opacity matters.
Year-round everyday T-shirts for production runs. Single jersey 160–180 GSM with 95/5 cotton-spandex, or jersey knit 180 GSM 95/5. At this overlap weight both fabrics perform equivalently. Single jersey is typically cheaper; jersey knit often comes pre-finished with better stretch recovery.
Long-sleeve tops and basic sweatshirts. Jersey knit 180–220 GSM 95/5 with spandex, or single jersey 180–200 GSM with spandex. Jersey knit holds its shape slightly better under regular wear.
Performance T-shirts and running tops. Jersey knit with 6–10% spandex (elastane) and a polyester-dominant blend (90–94% polyester), at 200–240 GSM. Single jersey is not suitable here — it's too lightweight and loses its shape under movement. See our guide "Performance and Activewear Fabrics" for full detail.
Fitted dresses and bodycon styles. Jersey knit with spandex at 200–260 GSM, or ponte roma at 280–320 GSM. Single jersey is not suitable for fitted dresses — it stretches out and droops within a few weeks of wear.
Children's base layers and bodysuits. Single jersey 140–160 GSM, 100% combed cotton. Hypoallergenic, soft, and pill-resistant. See our guide "Fabrics for Children's Clothing" for full detail.
Underwear and nightwear. Single jersey 130–160 GSM, 100% cotton. Lightweight, breathable, and hypoallergenic. See our guide "Fabrics for Lingerie and Underwear" for full detail.
Branded merch and print-ready T-shirts. Single jersey or jersey knit 160–180 GSM, 100% carded cotton or an 80/20 cotton-polyester blend. The smooth, even surface holds sharp print detail cleanly. Single jersey offers better value for budget merch runs.
School uniform. Single jersey 180–200 GSM 95/5 for school turtlenecks and everyday tops.
Premium capsule collections. Single jersey 160–180 GSM compact combed cotton, or jersey knit 200–230 GSM compact combed cotton. Noticeably softer handle than carded options, and remains pill-free after years of washing.
Fabric Composition: What to Look For
The fibre content determines how a T-shirt or long-sleeve top performs after repeated washing and wear.
Cotton 80–100%. The foundation of both single jersey and jersey knit. The higher the cotton content, the softer and more comfortable the hand. Use 100% cotton for childrenswear and premium lines. An 80/20 cotton-polyester blend suits volume merch.
Spandex (elastane) 3–10%. A minimum of 3–5% prevents knees and elbows from bagging out. Use 5–8% for fitted long-sleeve tops and dresses. Use 8–10% for performance and activewear styles.
Polyester 15–30%. Reduces cost, improves wash durability, and increases abrasion resistance. An 80/20 cotton-polyester blend is the standard for volume merch production.
What to avoid. Rayon (viscose) above 10% in the blend — the fabric will sag and lose shape. Vague "synthetic" fibre declarations with no specific type listed — this usually means cheap polyester that pills heavily within 5–10 washes.
For a detailed breakdown of yarn spinning technologies — open-end (rotor-spun), carded, combed, and compact combed cotton — see our guide "Open-End vs Carded vs Combed vs Compact Combed Cotton." As a quick rule: carded yarn for merch, combed or compact combed for premium.
Fabric Yardage: How Much Do You Need Per Garment?
Standard roll width for single jersey is 165–180 cm (65–71 in); for jersey knit, 165–185 cm (65–73 in).
Individual one-off cutting:
Production batch of 10–50 units, one style:
Cuffs and neckbands in 1x1 rib knit at 170–220 GSM: 0.1–0.15 m (approx. 4–6 in) per garment.
Fabric allowance. Add 15% for one-off cutting; 5–10% for production batches.
Pricing: Wholesale vs Retail
Retail pricing by the yard (e.g., through online fabric marketplaces or fabric retailers) carries a significant mark-up over wholesale. For single jersey at 140–180 GSM in 100% cotton, expect retail prices to run roughly double the wholesale rate. Jersey knit at 180–200 GSM and spandex jersey at 200–240 GSM sit in a higher bracket still at retail.
At wholesale, fabric is tiered by yarn quality and GSM. The general hierarchy from most to least economical: open-end (rotor-spun) cotton → carded cotton → combed cotton → compact combed cotton. Each step up in yarn quality adds cost but delivers meaningfully better handle and pill resistance. Jersey knit at the overlap weight of 180 GSM is often comparable in wholesale price to single jersey at the same weight — the difference narrows considerably at the middle of the range.
For a production run of 10 basic T-shirts at the 160–180 GSM crossover weight, fabric consumption is approximately 7–9 metres (8–10 yd). Single jersey and jersey knit at this weight come in at similar wholesale costs and can be treated as interchangeable for budgeting purposes. For 10 fitted long-sleeve tops in performance jersey at 230 GSM 94/6 polyester-spandex, fabric consumption rises to 9–11 metres (10–12 yd), reflecting the additional yardage per garment and the higher per-metre cost of the heavier fabric.
Fabric Recommendations by End Use
Summer T-shirts, base layers, baby bodysuits, and beachwear: single jersey 140 GSM 100% cotton, open-end yarn, black — /products/kulirnaya-glad-140grm2-100hb-1002-oe-antratsit-tr001-kg-cec3c6e0. The standard lightweight option for volume production and base layers.
Year-round premium T-shirts, capsule collections, and childrenswear ages 3–10: single jersey 160 GSM 94/6 cotton-spandex compact combed cotton, black — /products/kulirnaya-glad-160grm2-94hb6lkr-180sm-kompakt-pene-401-chern-74e5daab. Top-tier handle — silky, pill-free, and durable.
Everyday T-shirts, long-sleeve tops, and print-ready branded merch: jersey knit 180 GSM 97/3 polyester-spandex, white — /products/dzhersi-180grm2-97pef3el-165sm-prestizh-belyy-aists501-tr008-86f6c8cb. A versatile, lightweight jersey knit for volume production.
Fitted long-sleeve tops, performance tops with spandex, and fitted athletic dresses: jersey knit 230 GSM 94/6 polyester-spandex stretch, white — /products/dzhersi-230grm2-94pef6el-165sm-sport-prestizh-streych-belyy-d61776f0. The right weight for close-fitted styles.
Heavier long-sleeve tops, fitted bodycon dresses, and pencil skirts: jersey 320 GSM 100% cotton ponte roma, green — /collections/knitwear. Dense double-faced structure with excellent shape retention.
Browse the full range in the knit fabrics category — /collections/knitwear, single jersey — /collections/knitwearkulirka/, jersey knit — /collections/knitwearjersey/. Related guides: "Knit Fabrics: How to Choose", "Single Jersey GSM Guide", "Jersey Knit GSM Guide", "Fabrics for T-Shirts".
Common Mistakes When Choosing Between Single Jersey and Jersey Knit
A few errors that come up repeatedly.
Using lightweight single jersey (130–140 GSM) for a long-sleeve top. Long-sleeve tops are worn close to the body and put through constant movement. Lightweight single jersey will bag at the elbows within a month. For long-sleeve tops, use 180–200 GSM with spandex.
Sewing a fitted dress in single jersey without spandex. Single jersey with no elastane content will sag at the hips and seat after the first wash. For fitted dresses, use a minimum of jersey knit at 200 GSM with 5–8% spandex.
Using 130 GSM single jersey for white T-shirts. At this weight, underwear will show through light colours. For white or pale styles, use a minimum of 170 GSM single jersey or jersey knit at 180+ GSM.
Buying open-end (rotor-spun) cotton single jersey for a premium capsule collection. Open-end yarn has a slightly hairy, rougher surface and will pill in high-friction areas after 10–15 washes. For premium, use combed cotton at minimum — compact combed cotton for best results.
Cutting without checking the stretch direction. Both single jersey and jersey knit stretch in both directions, but the primary stretch runs across the width of the roll (cross-grain). Cutting on the grainline gives a more stable garment shape.
Mismatched composition between ribbing and body fabric. If the body fabric is cotton-spandex and the 1x1 rib for cuffs or neckbands is 100% cotton, the ribbing will ripple and pucker after washing. Always match the spandex content of trims to the body fabric.
Ordering exactly to calculated yardage. Always add 5–10% for production batches and 15% for individual one-off cutting.
Frequently Asked Questions
At 160–180 GSM, both fabrics perform almost identically. Single jersey is slightly lighter and typically more affordable; jersey knit is marginally denser and usually comes with spandex already incorporated. For volume merch, buy whichever is better priced at the time of purchasing. See our guides "Single Jersey GSM Guide" and "Jersey Knit GSM Guide" for a full weight-by-weight breakdown.
Jersey knit 180–220 GSM 95/5 cotton-spandex. Long-sleeve tops are worn constantly and stretch repeatedly — spandex is essential to prevent elbow bagging. Single jersey at 180+ GSM with spandex also works, but jersey knit holds its shape slightly better over time.
At the crossover weight of 180–200 GSM, the differences are minimal. At 130–160 GSM, single jersey is noticeably finer and lighter. At 200–280 GSM, jersey knit is denser and better suited to close-fitted styles. The naming boundary varies between suppliers, so focus on GSM and composition rather than the label. See our guide "Knit Fabrics: How to Choose" for more.
Single jersey 140–170 GSM, 100% combed cotton. Hypoallergenic and soft — the standard for baby and infant wear. For close-fitted children's styles, use single jersey 160–180 GSM with 3–5% spandex. For performance childrenswear, jersey knit with spandex.
Yes — jersey knit 200–260 GSM in 95/5 cotton-spandex or 92/8 is the industry standard for fitted bodycon dresses. Single jersey will not hold a close fit in a dress — it sags and drops out of shape too quickly.
Single jersey or jersey knit 160–180 GSM in 100% carded cotton or an 80/20 cotton-polyester blend. The smooth, even surface holds sharp print detail well. For premium capsule merch, step up to compact combed cotton.
0.9–1.1 m (approx. 1–1.2 yd) for a one-off; 0.7–0.9 m (approx. 0.75–1 yd) per unit in a batch of 10 or more. Long-sleeve tops require more: 1.1–1.4 m (approx. 1.2–1.55 yd) individually, 0.9–1.1 m (approx. 1–1.2 yd) in a batch. See our "Single Jersey GSM Guide" for a full yardage table.
Ponte roma. This is a dense double-faced jersey knit at 280–330 GSM, sitting at the boundary with interlock knit. It is used for heavier fitted dresses and pencil skirts. Heavier than standard jersey knit, it holds its shape without spandex.
Specialist knit fabric wholesalers and direct manufacturers — Turkish and Central Asian mills are well-regarded sources for premium-quality jersey knits. Minimum order quantities typically start from one roll (50–80 m / 55–88 yd) in a single colourway at wholesale prices.
It is a moving boundary, sitting around 180–200 GSM. One supplier may label a 200 GSM fabric as single jersey; another will call it jersey. Don't rely on the name — focus on the GSM and composition when comparing options. See our guide "Knit Fabrics: How to Choose" for a full explanation.