How to Choose the Right Fleece Fabric Weight: A GSM Guide for Hoodies, Sweatshirts, and Joggers (180–460 GSM)
French terry and brushed fleece are the backbone fabrics for everyday casual wear: hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers, track suits, cardigans, sweater dresses, and loungewear. The single most important decision when sourcing these fabrics is the weight — measured in GSM (grams per square meter). A 180 GSM French terry and a 380 GSM brushed fleece are essentially different fabrics suited to different seasons and garment types. This guide walks through the full fleece GSM range from 180 to 460 GSM, maps each weight to the right application, and shows you how to read a supplier's product listing without getting the warmth level wrong.
How Fabric Weight Works in Fleece and French Terry
Fabric weight is expressed in GSM — the mass of one square meter of fabric. It directly controls three critical performance parameters.
Warmth. The heavier the fabric, the more air pockets are trapped between the yarns, and the warmer the finished garment. A 200 GSM French terry is a summer and transitional-season fabric. A 320 GSM brushed fleece is a winter fabric. Anything above 400 GSM is for serious cold-weather use.
Breathability. Lighter fabrics breathe better and suit active wear and warmer seasons. Heavy brushed fleece is a more closed structure — it becomes uncomfortable at temperatures above around 65°F (18°C).
Cost. Heavier fabrics cost more per yard because they consume more yarn. The wholesale price difference between a 200 GSM French terry (loop-back) and a 340 GSM brushed fleece heavyweight French terry is typically 30–50% per meter.
There is also the thread-system count used in knitting: French terry (loop-back) is knitted with two yarn systems, while heavyweight French terry uses three. For a detailed comparison of both constructions, see the guide "French Terry 2-Thread vs 3-Thread."
The Fleece GSM Scale: Six Key Weight Ranges
The market for fleece and French terry fabrics divides naturally into six GSM ranges. Each has its own set of ideal applications.
180–220 GSM (French terry, loop-back). The lightest weight available. Smooth face side, small unraised loops on the reverse. Best for lightweight summer hoodies for cool evenings, loungewear sweatshirts, children's summer styles, and long-sleeve layering pieces. Any warmth comes from the hood or an outer layer — this weight is not suitable as standalone winter outerwear.
220–260 GSM (French terry with a light brush, or heavyweight French terry without brushing). The all-purpose transitional weight for spring and autumn. Everyday hoodies, lightweight track suits, basic sweatshirts, and open cardigans. Comfortable at 50–60°F (10–15°C) and not too warm indoors at 68°F (20°C). This is the working standard for transitional-season basics.
260–300 GSM (heavyweight French terry, loop-back, tight loop structure, or lightly brushed). Cool-weather and early winter use. Lightweight winter hoodies worn under a shell jacket, everyday track suits, cardigans, and sweater dresses. The unraised loop reverse is clean and dense — excellent for print applications.
300–340 GSM (heavyweight French terry, brushed fleece). The mainstream volume weight. Everyday hoodies and track suits for the autumn–winter season, branded merchandise, and corporate garments. This is the standard weight for most high-volume e-commerce garments. A genuinely warm everyday weight.
340–400 GSM (dense heavyweight French terry, brushed or loop-back). Winter hoodies, warm home-wear sets for cold climates, insulated sweatshirts, and heavy cardigans. Heavier, warmer, and slower to dry. Suitable for a winter wardrobe worn without a shell jacket, or with a light outer layer only.
410–460 GSM (three-thread construction with bonded sherpa or Euro-pile lining). A heavyweight insulating fabric for winter parkas, extreme-cold sweatshirts, and workwear. Rarely used for standard hoodies — this weight sits at the boundary with insulated outerwear fabrics and is most common in outerwear and technical workwear applications.
Fleece GSM Guide: Matching Weight to Garment
The right choice depends on the garment's intended use, the target season, and the end customer.
Lightweight summer hoodie for cool evenings; loungewear sweatshirt. French terry loop-back 185–200 GSM, 100% cotton, no polyester. Light and breathable.
Children's transitional-season hoodie, ages 5–10. French terry loop-back 200–220 GSM, 100% combed cotton. Hypoallergenic and soft against the skin.
Basic everyday transitional hoodie. Heavyweight French terry, loop-back, no brushing, 240–260 GSM, 80/20 cotton–polyester. Breathable, holds its shape well.
Everyday winter hoodie and sweatshirt, mass-market e-commerce. Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 280–320 GSM, 65/35 cotton–polyester. The working standard for high-volume production.
Premium 100% cotton hoodie for an own-brand label. Heavyweight French terry 300–340 GSM, 100% cotton, carded loop-back or compact combed cotton construction.
Warm winter sweatshirts and cardigans. Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 320–380 GSM, 65/35 or 80/20 blend. For a winter wardrobe worn without a shell jacket.
Winter home-wear sets for cold climates. Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 320–340 GSM, 100% cotton. Warm, soft, suited to cold homes and hard winters.
Insulated outerwear and workwear. Heavyweight French terry with bonded pile 410–460 GSM, 65/35 blend. Sits at the boundary with insulated outerwear; used in outerwear and technical applications.
Branded merchandise with logo printing. Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 280–320 GSM, 80/20 blend; or loop-back, no brushing, 300 GSM, 100% cotton. A flat, dense surface gives clean results for sublimation or screen printing.
Joggers and track pants. Transitional season: 240–280 GSM, loop-back, no brushing. Winter: 280–320 GSM, brushed fleece. For slim-fit or tapered styles, add 3–5% spandex (elastane) to the blend.
Fiber Composition: What to Look For
The fiber blend determines how the finished garment performs after repeated washing.
Cotton, 65–100%. The foundation of a quality fleece fabric. The higher the cotton content, the softer and more comfortable the hand feel. Use 100% cotton for childrenswear and premium capsule collections. Use 80/20 or 65/35 blends for branded merchandise and volume production.
Polyester, 15–35%. Added for shape retention. After 20–30 washes, a blended garment still fits as new; a 100% cotton equivalent at that point will have stretched at the knees and cuffs.
Spandex (elastane), 3–5%. Optional, for close-fitting cuts: slim-leg joggers, fleece leggings, athletic crop tops.
What to avoid. Rayon (viscose) above 10% in the blend — it sags and loses shape after washing. Any fabric listed with generic "synthetic fiber" content rather than a named fiber type typically contains up to 60% low-grade polyester that pills within 5–10 washes.
For a full breakdown of yarn spinning technologies — open-end (OE), carded, combed, and compact combed — see the guide "OE, Carded, Combed, or Compact Combed Cotton: Which Is Right for Your Project?" For volume branded merchandise, carded cotton is standard. For premium applications, use combed or compact combed yarn.
Choosing Fleece Weight by Season
Season is the primary driver of GSM selection.
Summer (June–August). 180–220 GSM, French terry loop-back, 100% cotton. Lightweight hoodies for cool evenings and casual loungewear. Demand is moderate and steady through the season.
Transitional seasons (March–May, September–October). 240–300 GSM, heavyweight French terry, loop-back or lightly brushed. The go-to weight for spring and autumn basics, lightweight sweatshirts, and track suits.
Winter (November–February). 300–340 GSM, heavyweight French terry brushed fleece. The mainstream volume weight. Hoodies, sets, and sweatshirts for daily wear. Peak demand runs from October through December.
Hard winter and outdoor use. 340–400 GSM brushed, or dense loop-back. For cold-climate winter wardrobes and extended time outdoors.
For a detailed seasonal buying plan and peak demand patterns across weight categories, see the category guide "French Terry and Fleece: How to Choose."
How Much Fabric Do You Need Per Garment?
Standard roll width for French terry and fleece fabrics is 175–200 cm (69–79 in). Fabric consumption per unit varies significantly depending on production scale.
Individual/one-off cutting:
Production run of 10–50 units, one style:
Cuffs, waistband, and hood facing are cut from 2x2 rib knit (rib knit) at a GSM 30–40 points heavier than the main shell fabric. A single hoodie requires approximately 0.2–0.3 m (0.22–0.33 yd) of rib knit. For guidance on selecting the right rib fabric, see the guide "2x2 Rib Knit vs 1x1 Rib Knit."
Cutting allowance. Add 15% over the calculated yardage for individual/one-off cutting. For a production run, allow 5–10%. Knit fabrics must always be cut on the grainline — off-grain offcuts cannot be used in seams.
Wholesale vs. Retail Pricing: What to Expect
Retail prices (by the yard, online fabric retailers) and wholesale prices (mill or distributor minimums) can differ substantially. As a general guide for budgeting:
French terry loop-back, 100% cotton: retail pricing is typically 2–3× the wholesale rate. At wholesale, lightweight 180–220 GSM loop-back is the most affordable option in the category. Premium 100% cotton commands a noticeable premium over standard carded blends.
Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece, 100% cotton: retail prices for quality brushed fleece reflect a significant premium over blend fabrics. At wholesale, a 65/35 blend at 300–340 GSM is the most cost-efficient weight for volume production.
As GSM increases, price per meter rises accordingly — a 360–400 GSM dense fleece costs roughly 30–50% more per meter at wholesale than a standard 280–320 GSM brushed fleece. Bonded pile/sherpa constructions at 420–460 GSM sit at the top of the price range in this category.
When costing a production run of 10 units, the difference in fabric cost between the lightest (180–220 GSM loop-back) and heaviest premium option (compact combed 360–400 GSM brushed) can represent a meaningful portion of total COGS per unit — factor this in when setting retail price points.
Recommended Fabrics for Specific Garment Types
Lightweight summer hoodie; children's transitional hoodie; loungewear sweatshirt: French terry loop-back 185 GSM, 100% cotton, open-end (OE) yarn. The go-to lightweight option for volume childrenswear and casual home wear production.
Basic everyday transitional hoodie; lightweight track suit to be worn under a jacket: French terry loop-back 210–220 GSM, 75/25 cotton–polyester, black. A versatile transitional weight for everyday styles.
Transitional-season slim-fit joggers with spandex: French terry loop-back 250 GSM, 95/5 cotton–spandex (elastane), combed yarn, red. A denser transitional fleece with stretch for tapered silhouettes.
Premium 100% cotton hoodie for an own brand: heavyweight French terry 310 GSM, 100% cotton, carded loop-back, denim blue. Premium weight, loop-back construction, excellent for print and tactile branding.
Volume winter branded merchandise for e-commerce: heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 340 GSM, 65/35 cotton–polyester. A proven winter weight; the blend ensures shape retention after repeated washing.
Warm winter sweatshirts and cardigans: heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 370 GSM, 65/35 cotton–polyester, compact combed yarn, burgundy. A dense winter weight with a premium yarn specification.
Insulated outerwear, workwear, extreme outdoor: heavyweight French terry with bonded pile 420–460 GSM, 65/35. Maximum weight with a bonded insulating base — outerwear territory.
Browse the full range in the French Terry & Fleece category: All fleece fabrics. Filtered by construction: French terry loop-back and heavyweight French terry / brushed fleece. Related guide: "French Terry and Fleece: How to Choose."
Common Mistakes When Choosing Fleece GSM
These are the most frequent errors when selecting fleece fabric weight.
Making a winter hoodie from lightweight French terry. A 220 GSM loop-back without brushing only works down to around 40°F (5°C), and only as a mid-layer under a jacket. A winter hoodie cut from this weight will be cold, and the batch ends up on clearance. For winter, start at a minimum of 280 GSM heavyweight brushed fleece.
Making a summer hoodie from heavy brushed fleece. A 320 GSM brushed fleece feels like a sauna at 65°F (18°C). For summer, use a 180–220 GSM French terry loop-back or a 240 GSM heavyweight loop-back without brushing.
Printing onto the brushed side of a fleece. Ink sits on top of the raised pile rather than bonding cleanly, and the loop structure of the reverse shows through the print. For sharp prints with fine detail, use a 300–340 GSM heavyweight loop-back (no brushing) or a French terry loop-back.
Buying one weight for all garment types. You cannot cut both a winter hoodie and a summer T-shirt from the same 320 GSM brushed fleece. Every garment type has its own correct weight. For a full fabric-to-garment matrix, see the guide "Which Fabric for Which Garment: A Guide for E-Commerce Sellers and Independent Brands."
Mismatching the rib knit weight to the shell fabric. The ribbing (cuffs, waistband, hood facing) must be 30–40 GSM heavier than the shell. For a 200 GSM French terry shell, use a 250–280 GSM 2x2 rib knit or a 200–220 GSM 1x1 rib knit. For a 320 GSM brushed fleece shell, use a 360 GSM 2x2 rib knit.
Choosing a 380+ GSM dense fleece for an everyday hoodie. The finished garment will be heavy, slow to dry after washing, and too warm to wear indoors. The optimum for everyday wear is 280–320 GSM. Reserve 380+ GSM for winter sweatshirts and workwear.
Ordering exactly the calculated yardage with no allowance. Knit fabrics must be cut strictly on the grainline — off-grain trimmings cannot be used in construction. Always add 5–10% to a production run order and 15% for individual/one-off cutting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece, 280–300 GSM, 65/35 cotton–polyester. This weight covers the vast majority of autumn–winter hoodies, sets, and sweatshirts for both e-commerce and own-brand production. It is the industry working standard for volume garment manufacturing.
By fabric weight and warmth. 240 GSM is a transitional/layering weight — comfortable under a jacket or in cool weather. 320 GSM is a genuine winter weight for standalone everyday wear. In a supplier's product images they can look identical; the difference is only apparent when you wear both.
Yes — but only in French terry loop-back, no brushing, 100% cotton. The result is a transitional-weight garment suitable for cool summer evenings. For active summer wear at 77°F (25°C) and above, single jersey (cotton jersey) at 160–180 GSM is the better choice.
Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece, 320–380 GSM, 65/35 or 80/20 cotton–polyester. For very cold regions (below -4°F / -20°C), move up to a dense 360–400 GSM. For outdoor technical applications, use 410–460 GSM bonded pile construction.
Heavyweight French terry brushed fleece, 280–320 GSM, 65/35 or 80/20 cotton–polyester, carded yarn. This is the optimum balance of cost and durability for branded merchandise. For prints with fine detail, switch to a loop-back (no brushing) 280–320 GSM construction instead.
Basic hoodie with hood: 1.4–1.6 m (1.5–1.75 yd) for a one-off cut; 1.0–1.2 m (1.1–1.3 yd) per unit in a run of 10 or more. Oversized hoodie: 1.4–1.6 m per unit in a production run; 1.5–1.8 m for a one-off cut. For a full yardage breakdown, see the guide "French Terry and Fleece: How to Choose."
Transitional-season children's hoodie: French terry loop-back 200–220 GSM, 100% combed cotton. Winter children's hoodie: heavyweight French terry brushed fleece 280–300 GSM, 100% cotton. For childrenswear, a 100% cotton, polyester-free composition is strongly recommended.
Composition and weight can be identical — the difference is the back surface. With brushing, the raised pile traps heat like a lightweight fleece. Without brushing, the loops remain smooth, giving slightly less warmth but a cleaner finish, better seam lie, and a surface suited to sharp print work. For a full comparison, see the guide "French Terry Loop-Back vs Brushed Fleece: 2-Thread vs 3-Thread."
Yes — this is typically either a lightly brushed French terry loop-back or a heavyweight French terry without brushing. Both versions exist in the market. Check the supplier listing carefully for "loop-back with light brush" or "heavyweight loop-back, no brush" — this tells you the back surface texture you will actually receive.
In terms of warmth, they are roughly comparable. Brushed fleece traps more air in the raised pile; dense loop-back achieves warmth through tighter yarn compaction. Both work well for a winter hoodie worn under a shell jacket. The loop-back is preferable when print quality or seam neatness is a priority.
This is a multi-layer bonded fabric: a standard heavyweight French terry face bonded to a sewn-on sherpa or pile lining on the reverse. It is very warm but heavy and slow to dry. Its primary applications are technical workwear and winter outerwear — not everyday casualwear.