French Terry vs Fleece: Which Fabric Is Right for Hoodies, Sweatshirts, and Joggers?
French terry and fleece. Two go-to fabrics for warm everyday clothing. At first glance they seem similar — both are soft, warm, and have a textured back. But they are fundamentally different materials. French terry is a cotton or cotton-blend knit with a looped or brushed reverse; fleece is a synthetic pile fabric made from 100% polyester. That difference in fiber content drives everything else: thermal performance, breathability, wash behavior, cost, and end use. This guide breaks down exactly which fabric belongs in which garment — and where substituting one for the other will get you into trouble.
French Terry vs Fleece: What Actually Sets Them Apart
The core difference lies in the fiber and the construction method.
French terry is a cotton or cotton-blend knit produced on a circular knitting machine using two or three yarn systems. The face is smooth; the reverse is either looped (loop-back French terry) or brushed out into a soft pile (brushed fleece / sweatshirt fleece). Warmth comes from trapped air in the loops or pile, while the cotton fiber itself breathes and absorbs moisture.
Fleece is a synthetic pile fabric made from 100% polyester. The base fabric is tightly woven or knitted, then mechanically brushed on one or both sides to raise a long, lofty pile. That pile traps a layer of still air between the fibers, which provides the insulation. Essentially, fleece is a polyester knit that has been brushed to a pile finish.
The one-sentence summary: French terry breathes and absorbs sweat; fleece is light and warm but barely breathes and does not absorb moisture.
Side-by-Side Comparison
A quick reference to help match material to end use.
Property
Heavyweight Brushed Fleece (French Terry 3-thread)
Single-sided Fleece
Double-sided Fleece
Fiber content
65–100% cotton + polyester
100% polyester
100% polyester
GSM
280–340 GSM
130–200 GSM
200–380 GSM
Finished garment weight
Medium
Light
Light to medium
Warmth
High
Medium
High
Breathability
High
Low
Very low
Moisture absorption
Yes — approx. 8% of fabric weight
No — under 1%
No — under 1%
Drying speed
Slow (2–4 hours)
Fast (15–30 minutes)
Fast (30–60 minutes)
Printability
Excellent
Fair (pile surface)
Poor (dense pile)
Hypoallergenic
High
Medium (synthetic)
Medium
Shrinkage after washing
3–5% (cotton)
Minimal
Minimal
Wholesale price range
Higher — typically 30–50% more per yard than comparable fleece
Lower — entry-level wholesale pricing
Mid to high — depending on weight
The table shows fleece winning on weight, drying speed, and dimensional stability. French terry wins on breathability, next-to-skin comfort, and printability.
Which Is Warmer: French Terry or Fleece?
This is the most common question from buyers. There is no single answer — it depends entirely on GSM and how the garment will be worn.
At equal GSM (200 GSM): Fleece is warmer. The long double-sided pile traps a thicker air layer, which acts as insulation. A 200 GSM loop-back French terry without brushing is noticeably thinner and less warm by comparison.
In the most common sweatshirt weights: A 280–320 GSM brushed sweatshirt fleece and a 200–250 GSM double-sided fleece deliver roughly equivalent warmth. The French terry feels denser; the fleece feels softer and lighter in the hand.
In hard cold (below 0°F / -20°C): Heavy double-sided fleece at 280–380 GSM outperforms French terry because it does not absorb sweat and never turns into a cold, wet base layer. Ski mid-layers, thermal underlayers, and winter workwear use fleece specifically for this reason.
At rest and indoors: Brushed sweatshirt fleece feels warmer against the skin because cotton releases body heat slowly and sits comfortably against the body. A dry fleece garment can feel slightly cooler indoors due to the smooth synthetic fiber surface.
During active exercise: Fleece outperforms French terry because it does not absorb sweat and dries quickly. French terry absorbs perspiration; during sustained activity the garment becomes heavy and damp.
Which Fabric Works Best for Each Garment Type
Matching fabric to product. The main criteria are season, activity level, and aesthetic requirements.
Everyday hoodies and sweatshirts: Brushed sweatshirt fleece (heavyweight French terry) at 280–320 GSM. Cotton feels better against skin, the fabric breathes, and it accepts screen printing and embroidery cleanly. Fleece is the wrong choice here — synthetic fiber against bare skin in everyday wear feels stuffy, and print adhesion on a pile surface is poor.
Sportswear for training and running: Depends on the brief. For cool weather and moderate intensity, use a 280 GSM heavyweight French terry with a small percentage of spandex (elastane). For high-intensity workouts with heavy sweating, use a lightweight 130–150 GSM single-sided fleece with odor-resistant treatment. Ideally, the outer layer is French terry or fleece while the inner layer is a technical quick-dry knit.
Sweatshirts and open-front cardigans: 300–340 GSM brushed sweatshirt fleece for everyday and mass-market pieces. Double-sided fleece at 280–380 GSM for winter styles and outdoor segments, where resistance to damp conditions and fast drying time matter.
Ski base layers and thermal mid-layers: Fleece only — nothing else. Polyester does not absorb sweat, wicks moisture outward, and dries within 30 minutes when you stop moving. French terry on the slopes becomes a cold, wet layer within an hour of activity.
Jacket and overall linings: Single-sided fleece at 130–200 GSM. Smooth side faces the shell fabric; pile side faces the body. Lightweight, warm, moisture-resistant, and adds minimal bulk to outerwear.
Winter workwear and technical jackets: Double-sided fleece at 280–380 GSM as a lining or insulating layer. French terry is unsuitable here due to its cotton base.
Loungewear, pajamas, and cold-weather robes: Brushed sweatshirt fleece at 280–300 GSM for quality and next-to-skin comfort. Double-sided fleece at 180–220 GSM for budget-friendly styles and easy-care garments.
Children's clothing: 100% cotton French terry at 200–280 GSM for hypoallergenic performance. Reserve fleece for outer jacket linings — avoid direct skin contact with fleece for infants and toddlers.
Branded merchandise and corporate apparel for printing: French terry only. Print applied to a fleece pile surface cracks within 5–10 washes; on French terry it holds for years.
What the Fiber Content Label Should Say
Fiber content determines how the fabric behaves in wear and in the wash.
French terry: 65–100% cotton plus 0–35% polyester. Pure 100% cotton for premium and children's garments; an 80/20 or 65/35 cotton-polyester blend for mass-market and branded merchandise. Optional 3–5% spandex (elastane) for close-fitting cuts. For a full breakdown of yarn spinning methods and their effect on fabric quality, see our guide "French Terry: How to Choose."
Fleece: 100% polyester as standard, or 95% polyester / 5% spandex (elastane) for stretch versions used in fitted shell jackets. Microfleece uses finer polyester filaments and is softer than standard fleece. Sherpa fleece has a longer, faux-shearling pile — heavier and warmer than standard fleece. Polartec is the benchmark premium fleece brand from the US manufacturer Polartec, offering advanced treatments including wind resistance and anti-pilling coatings.
What to avoid: In French terry, more than 10% rayon (viscose) — it causes the fabric to sag and lose shape after washing. In fleece, vague labeling such as "synthetic" without specifying fiber type — low-grade polyester fleece pills heavily within 5–10 washes.
Pricing: Wholesale vs Retail
Retail pricing varies widely by region, supplier, and fabric weight. As a general guide for international buyers:
French terry (brushed sweatshirt fleece), 100% cotton, heavier weights: commands a significant retail premium — expect to pay roughly 30–50% more per yard than comparable fleece at retail. Mid-weight blended options are more accessible.
Fleece, 180–200 GSM single-sided: the most affordable entry point in this category. Double-sided fleece at 280–380 GSM sits in the mid-to-upper price tier.
At wholesale: Loop-back French terry (2-thread) is the most cost-effective French terry option. Heavyweight brushed sweatshirt fleece (3-thread, cotton-blend) is moderately priced; 100% cotton versions carry a premium. Lightweight single-sided fleece is the cheapest option overall; heavy double-sided fleece approaches mid-range French terry pricing.
When costing a production run of 10 or more units, French terry typically runs 30–50% more per yard than fleece of equivalent GSM. That premium is offset by longer garment lifespan and stronger consumer perception of cotton fabric quality — particularly relevant for branded merchandise and direct-to-consumer e-commerce.
Fabric Recommendations by Garment
Basic everyday hoodie or sweatshirt, cotton-poly blend, suitable for screen printing and embroidery: Heavyweight brushed sweatshirt fleece (3-thread), 340 GSM, 65% cotton / 35% polyester. Dense winter weight, holds its shape through repeated washing, accepts print and embroidery reliably.
Premium hoodie or sweatshirt, 100% cotton, for a quality branded line: Heavyweight French terry (3-thread), 310 GSM, 100% cotton, denim colorway. The carded loop-back reverse gives a clean, dense texture; pure cotton accepts print with better hand-feel than blended fabric.
Ski base layer, thermal mid-layer, jacket lining: Single-sided fleece, 180 GSM, 100% polyester, black. Lightweight winter lining, fast-drying, moisture-resistant, designed for technical layering systems.
Winter outdoor sweatshirt, warm lining for winter workwear: Double-sided fleece, 280 GSM, 100% polyester. Dense double-sided construction for cold conditions where French terry would absorb moisture and lose its thermal performance.
Browse the full French terry range in the French Terry and Heavyweight French Terry sections. For a detailed comparison of French terry constructions and yarn types, see our guide "French Terry: How to Choose."
Common Mistakes When Choosing Between French Terry and Fleece
A few recurring errors where swapping one fabric for the other produces poor results.
Making a hoodie from fleece for e-commerce retail: Print applied to the fleece pile cracks within 5–10 washes, leading to returns and negative reviews. For a standard retail hoodie, always use French terry.
Making a ski base layer from French terry: In cold conditions, after an hour of movement the French terry absorbs sweat, becomes a cold wet layer, and will not dry until you are back indoors. Ski layering systems require fleece or technical performance knits exclusively.
Making a summer or spring hoodie from heavy fleece: Fleece has very low breathability. Above around 60°F (15°C) it becomes uncomfortably hot. For warm-weather or transitional-season styles, use a 200–220 GSM loop-back French terry (2-thread) or interlock knit instead.
Using French terry as a jacket lining: Cotton absorbs sweat, adds unnecessary weight, and dries slowly. The standard for warm jacket linings is 130–180 GSM single-sided fleece.
Judging fabric by appearance alone without checking GSM and fiber content: A 130 GSM fleece and a 380 GSM fleece can look identical in a product photo but are completely different fabrics with entirely different applications. The same applies to a 240 GSM vs 340 GSM French terry. Always verify the spec sheet figures before ordering.
Washing French terry or fleece with rough fabrics: Fleece pile snags on zippers and hook-and-loop fasteners and develops pilling. French terry degrades in hot water. Wash both fabrics on a delicate or synthetics cycle at 85–105°F (30–40°C), separately from denim and heavy outerwear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is warmer — French terry or fleece? At equal GSM, fleece is warmer due to its long double-sided pile. In the most common sweatshirt weights — brushed sweatshirt fleece at 300 GSM vs double-sided fleece at 250 GSM — warmth is roughly equivalent. On the slopes, fleece wins decisively. Indoors, brushed French terry feels warmer against the skin.
Can I make a hoodie from fleece? You can, but it will read as a sports or outdoor hoodie rather than a classic everyday sweatshirt. Print adhesion on pile is poor, and everyday fleece hoodies are less breathable. Use French terry for a standard hoodie; use fleece for ski and outdoor layering pieces.
What is the warmest fleece available? Double-sided fleece at 280–380 GSM — particularly Polartec or sherpa fleece with a long faux-shearling pile. These are the go-to options for serious winter outerwear. Microfleece is too thin and light for direct cold exposure.
Is fleece safe for children's clothing? Yes, but only as an outer lining for jackets and snowsuits. For garments in direct contact with infant or toddler skin, 100% cotton French terry is preferable — synthetic fibers can cause irritation on very sensitive skin. Fleece hoodies and jackets are perfectly suitable for older children.
Why is French terry more expensive than fleece? Cotton yarn costs more than polyester fiber. Circular knitting for French terry is slower than fleece production. Additional finishing operations — pre-shrinking and brushing — add to the cost of goods. At retail, French terry typically runs 30–50% more than comparable fleece.
Can fleece be machine washed? Yes — on a synthetics or delicate cycle at 85–105°F (30–40°C), with a slow spin. Do not use fabric softener: it clogs the fiber structure and reduces breathability. Dry flat or on a hanger.
What is Polartec and is it worth the premium? Polartec is a brand from the American manufacturer Polartec — the benchmark for premium fleece, with advanced treatments including DWR water repellency, anti-pilling coatings, and wind-resistant constructions. Standard commodity fleece made from low-grade polyester pills more quickly, carries no additional treatments, and typically costs two to three times less than Polartec.
Which fabric is better for gym wear? If your gym is heated and workouts are under 30 minutes, a 280 GSM brushed sweatshirt fleece (French terry) works well. For hour-long sessions with heavy sweating, a technical quick-dry knit as the base layer plus a lightweight 130–150 GSM single-sided fleece for warm-up and cool-down gives the best result.